Cold-Weather Cooking

Serves 4–6 • Active time: 25 min • Total time: 2 hours

Ingredients

• 1 lb dried white beans (navy or cannellini), soaked overnight and drained
• 1 large yellow onion, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 medium carrots, sliced into half-moons
• 2 stalks celery, sliced
• 1 can (14 oz) crushed tomatoes
• 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
• 1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, leaves torn
• 1 tsp smoked paprika, 1 tsp dried thyme, salt and black pepper
• 2 tbsp olive oil, Parmesan rind (optional)

Method: Heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Soften onion and celery for 8 minutes. Add garlic and carrots; cook 2 minutes more. Add beans, tomatoes, stock, spices, and Parmesan rind if using. Bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer, and cook uncovered 60–90 minutes until beans are completely tender. Discard rind. Stir in kale for the final 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously — beans absorb a lot of salt. Serve with crusty bread.

Improves significantly the second day. Freeze individual portions for up to 3 months.

Serves 6 • Active time: 35 min • Total time: 3 hours

Ingredients

• 2 lbs beef chuck, cut into 1.5-inch cubes, patted dry
• 3 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 large onion, diced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 cup dry red wine or additional stock
• 3 cups beef stock
• 3 medium carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 medium parsnips, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 lb Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme, 1 bay leaf
• Salt, black pepper, 1 tbsp flour

Method: Season beef with salt and pepper; dust lightly with flour. Working in batches to avoid crowding, brown beef on all sides in oil over high heat — 3–4 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate. Reduce heat to medium; soften onion 5 minutes, then add garlic and tomato paste for 1 minute. Pour in wine and scrape up browned bits. Add stock, beef, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook on low heat for 90 minutes. Add carrots, parsnips, and potatoes; continue cooking covered for 40–50 minutes until vegetables are tender. Discard thyme stems and bay leaf. Adjust seasoning.

This stew freezes well. The flavor deepens noticeably after the first day.

Serves 6 • Active time: 15 min • Total time: 2 hours

Ingredients

• 1 lb dried green or yellow split peas, rinsed
• 1 ham hock or 2 cups diced ham
• 1 large onion, diced
• 3 medium carrots, diced
• 3 stalks celery, diced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 7 cups water or chicken stock
• 1 tsp dried thyme, 1 bay leaf, salt and pepper
• 1 tbsp olive oil

Method: Soften onion, carrot, and celery in oil for 8 minutes. Add garlic for 1 minute. Add split peas, ham hock (or diced ham), stock, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Cook uncovered 1.5–2 hours, stirring occasionally, until peas have completely dissolved into a thick, smooth soup. If using a ham hock, remove it, shred the meat, discard bone and skin, and return meat to the pot. Discard bay leaf. Season to taste.

Makes 1 loaf • Active time: 10 min • Total time: 14–18 hours (mostly resting)

Ingredients

• 3 cups (390g) all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp instant yeast
• 1.5 tsp kosher salt
• 1.5 cups (355ml) lukewarm water

Method: Mix flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Add water and stir until a shaggy dough forms — no need for smoothness. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature 12–16 hours. The dough will bubble and more than double in size. Preheat oven to 450°F (232°C) with a covered Dutch oven inside for at least 30 minutes. Turn dough out onto a well-floured surface; shape loosely into a ball. Place on a square of parchment. Carefully lower dough (with parchment) into the hot Dutch oven. Bake covered 25 minutes, then uncovered 20–25 minutes until deep golden brown. Cool on a wire rack at least 20 minutes before slicing.

The long rest and covered Dutch oven trap steam, giving you a thick, crackly crust without any special equipment.

Makes 1 loaf • Active time: 20 min • Total time: 3.5 hours

Ingredients

• 2.25 tsp (1 packet) active dry yeast
• 1.25 cups (295ml) warm water (110°F / 43°C)
• 2 tbsp honey
• 1 cup (90g) old-fashioned rolled oats
• 2 tbsp butter or neutral oil
• 1.5 tsp salt
• 2–2.5 cups (260–325g) all-purpose flour

Method: Dissolve yeast in warm water with honey; let sit 5 minutes until foamy. Add oats, butter, salt, and 2 cups flour. Mix until combined, adding remaining flour a little at a time until the dough pulls away from the bowl but remains slightly tacky. Knead on a floured surface for 8 minutes (or 5 minutes in a stand mixer with dough hook). Place in an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise 1–1.5 hours until doubled. Punch down, shape into a log, and place in a greased 9x5-inch loaf pan. Cover and rise 45–60 minutes until the dough crowns above the rim. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 35–40 minutes until deep golden and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Cool completely before slicing.

Makes 1 quart • Active time: 15 min • Ready in: 3–5 days

Lacto-fermentation requires no special equipment — just salt, water, and a jar. The natural bacteria present on cucumbers do all the work.

• 1 lb small cucumbers (Kirby or Persian work best), blossom end trimmed
• 2 cups water
• 1 tbsp non-iodized salt (pickling, kosher, or sea salt)
• 4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
• Fresh dill (3–4 sprigs) or 1 tsp dill seed
• Optional: 1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns, a small grape or oak leaf (contains tannins that keep pickles crunchy)

Method: Dissolve salt in water to make a brine. Pack garlic, dill, and optional flavorings into a clean quart jar. Pack cucumbers tightly, standing upright if possible. Pour brine over cucumbers, leaving 1 inch headspace. The cucumbers must be fully submerged — use a small ziplock bag filled with extra brine as a weight if needed. Cover the jar loosely (do not seal airtight; fermentation produces CO2). Leave at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, for 3–5 days. Taste daily after day 2. When they reach your preferred sourness, seal and refrigerate. They will keep for 2 months in the refrigerator.

Makes about 4 half-pint jars

Wild blueberries are smaller and more intensely flavored than cultivated ones. This jam captures the concentrated flavor of late-summer picking.

• 4 cups (about 1.5 lbs) wild blueberries, fresh or frozen
• 2 cups (400g) granulated sugar
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tsp lemon zest

Method: Combine blueberries, sugar, and lemon juice in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, for 20–25 minutes. The jam is done when it reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer, or when a small dollop placed on a cold plate wrinkles when pushed. Stir in lemon zest. Ladle into sterilized half-pint jars and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes, or refrigerate and use within 3 weeks.